Accents Table Bourse – the Paris table that makes its own plates

Behind an unmarked door at 24 rue Feydeau, in the old stockbroking quarter of Paris's 2nd arrondissement, chef Romain Mahi and pastry chef Ayumi Sugiyama have cooked as a couple since the restaurant opened in December 2016, when Jean-Christophe Rizet ran the kitchen and Mahi worked as his second. Rizet left in August 2017, and Mahi took over the stoves. The Guide awarded the restaurant its first distinction in January 2019, and it holds One MICHELIN Star today. After several months of renovation, Accents reopened in March 2025 around a single idea: a transformation meant to break down the barrier between dining room and kitchen and put chefs and guests in direct contact. Thirty covers only, six tables of four and a broad raw-concrete counter for six, where Mahi now finishes every plate within sight of the room while second chef Geoffroy Montabord runs the stoves behind him. Even the tableware is theirs: plates and bowls the couple shape by hand, shown off behind the counter.

01The chefs

Ayumi Sugiyama was born in Shizuoka, Japan's tea-growing region, in December 1982, trained in French pastry, and crossed paths with Romain Mahi at La Truffière, the Paris table where much of the early Accents team first worked together. Mahi, from Issy-les-Moulineaux, trained at the Ferrandi school and cooked under Thierry Marx at Sur Mesure before a spell at Huaca Pucllana in Lima. The pair opened Accents together in December 2016, Sugiyama as manager and pastry chef, Mahi initially as second to Rizet before taking the kitchen in August 2017. The star followed in January 2019, and in 2023 Gault&Millau named Mahi a "Grand de Demain". Since the 2025 refit, Sugiyama spends part of service in the dining room before returning to her own pastry section, while sommelière Léa Salomon runs the pairings, wine or alcohol-free.

02The room and the setting

The current room is the work of two Franco-Japanese architects, Maïa Laville and Mamoru Kondo, who translated the chefs' own imagination into a palette of clay green, rock grey, sand beige and wood brown. Gone is the central island that once cut the dining room in two; in its place a partly open kitchen runs straight into the concrete counter, so that three or four cooks work under the gaze of the guests sitting opposite them, in a raw, unadorned setting built to show precision rather than hide it. The tableware follows the same logic: plates and bowls the chefs mould themselves from broken crockery and oyster shells, no two alike.

Insider tip

Lunch Wed–Sat, dinner Tue–Sat; book ahead and flag allergies in advance.

03The cooking

Mahi cooks a French base lit up by Japanese technique and a South American stopover in Lima, built on a deliberate land-and-sea logic and a dislike of luxury shortcuts. The kitchen's precision with fish and game, and its work on jus and sauces, is routinely singled out by visiting critics. Bread is baked fresh each morning and served with butter smoked over cherry wood and carved into playful shapes, a detail reviewers return to as one of the house's small signatures.

04What to order

The repertoire moves fast and rarely repeats itself: a turbot dressed with butternut, bottarga and truffle; a wild pollock with butternut, cauliflower, bottarga and fermented plum; a pigeon pie with Mesquer foie gras built to share; a blood sausage stuffed with banana compote that reads as a joke until the first bite. Sugiyama's desserts carry the same nerve, from a plate built on white asparagus that is deceptively plain yet deeply convincing, to cèpes with a light coffee meringue, praline cream and nougatine, or a burnt white chocolate cream with apple emulsion and a green apple bubble.

05Wine and drinks

Pairings are sommelière Léa Salomon's work, built either purely in wine or, for guests who prefer it, without alcohol, matched course for course against the kitchen's own back-and-forth between France and Japan. Since the 2025 relaunch the list of Japanese sakes has grown alongside a run of savoury cocktails, in step with a kitchen that leans on salt and umami as much as sweetness. The dinner tasting menu can be taken with a wine pairing at €85 or €115.

06When to go and booking

Lunch runs Wednesday to Saturday, from noon to 2pm, and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 10pm, according to the restaurant's own site in October 2026. A seven-course vegetarian menu is available if requested at the time of booking, and the kitchen asks to be told of any allergy or intolerance in advance. The nearest stations are Bourse on line 3 and Richelieu-Drouot on lines 8 and 9, with valet parking at the Vinci Bourse car park on the nearby Place de la Bourse.

For a weekend. For a lifetime.