Ferni in Antibes – the old town's go-to table, on the terrace and inside

For a lot of people in Antibes, Ferni is simply where you meet. It sits on the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance, at the point where the wide squares of the modern town give way to the lanes of Vieil Antibes, and it has become the old town's everyday address: a terrace in the sun at noon, a dining room that turns dinner into an evening out, and a team that makes both feel easy. Metro Mode recommends it without hesitation.

Here are the two rooms, the menu and the people who make it work.

01The terrace on the square

Outside, cream awnings with the Ferni name in black run the length of the front. Underneath, the tables are laid with pale celadon plates, and the chairs are wrought iron with lattice backs and thick white cushions. Olive trees and palms in terracotta pots break up the space, and the view runs out across the square to its tall white stone columns, the trees and the pastel façades beyond. On a bright autumn day the light comes through the canvas soft and warm – this is the table for a long lunch.

02A dining room made to measure

Step past the velvet curtain at the door and the mood changes. The family describes the interior as refined and designed to measure, and it shows in every detail: a terracotta ceiling hung with a grid of brass rails and milky globe lights, clusters of glowing pebble-shaped discs over the tables, arches traced in gold on cream walls, and a black-and-white marble floor polished to a shine. The banquettes come in terracotta velvet and sage green, and the round tables have orange velvet tub chairs. Tall glass doors fold back onto the terrace, so on warm days the two rooms open into each other.

Insider tip

Weekday formule du jour €25; lunch and dinner every day.

At the far end, a wall of wine is lit amber from behind, the bottles standing on slim brass ledges above a long velvet banquette – the corner that sets the tone for the evening. According to the tourist office there are about 75 places inside and as many again on the terrace.

03Mediterranean, the Bensimon way

Ferni is run by the Bensimon family, who have been part of Antibes's restaurant life for more than thirty years. The kitchen cooks Mediterranean food from fresh, local and seasonal produce, and the menu – printed in French and English – moves easily between a quick lunch and a proper dinner.

04What to order

Starters include La Fernîçoise, the house take on the Riviera's salade niçoise (€22), raw purple artichokes with a gentle anchoïade (€20), salmon gravlax with grilled avocado and lemon zest (€29), sea bass tartare in a citrus marinade with yuzu pearls (€26) and a creamy Italian burrata with tomato chutney and pistou (€21).

There are pizzas, from a Margherita at €16 to the Tartuffo with truffle ricotta cream and fresh truffle at €27, and pasta such as ravioles de Saint-Jean with artichoke cream (€19). From the land: chicken suprême with girolles (€29), the Ferni Burger with Wagyu beef, cheddar sauce and caramelised onions in a brioche bun (€26), and a Black Angus steak au poivre (€26). From the sea: scallops and king prawns with a crisp mushroom risotto and champagne sauce (€38), tuna tiradito with wasabi mayonnaise (€29), salmon in a bread crust with leek and butternut fondue (€28), and cod with corn hummus and a barigoule sauce (€31).

A second card brings dishes to linger over: 100% Ibérico ham (€36), the chef's duck foie gras terrine (€28), lobster linguine (€49), an Angus entrecôte with béarnaise (€42), grilled sea bream for one (€46) and a shoulder of Iberian lamb for two (€99). On weekdays the formule du jour – the dish of the day and a dessert – costs €25 (not at weekends or on public holidays), and children have their own menu at €16. Prices include tax and service.

05Marc, Martin and the team

Ferni's day-to-day head is Marc, and the room runs on his welcome. He is always on his toes, so everything works smoothly; his smile makes you feel special, and he makes sure everyone in the restaurant is comfortable – precisely the type of manager you want.

What makes Ferni the place people come back to is the service. The team works the terrace and the dining room with real energy – quick, warm and engaged – and the plates arrive full of flavour. Martin, in particular, always goes the extra mile for his guests, the kind of front-of-house who turns a good lunch into a great one. The family promises attentive, discreet service, and the staff deliver it with a smile.

06When to go

Lunch on the terrace is Ferni at its most Riviera: the sun, the square and a table of friends. In the evening the lights come up inside and the dining room is made for dinner for two. The restaurant is air-conditioned, accessible to wheelchair users and has high chairs for small children. The tourist office lists lunch from 12.30 to 14.30 and dinner from 19.00 to 22.00 every day, and gives Ferni a Gault&Millau label – call ahead to book, especially for weekend lunches.

For a weekend. For a lifetime.