The truffle winter in Provence – the markets in Richerenches and Carpentras

Provence has two seasons. One is summer, with lavender, festivals and crowded villages. The other begins when few visitors remain: from November to March, black truffles are sold at markets in northern Vaucluse, around Mont Ventoux and in the Luberon. It is a winter of cold, clear mornings, mistral winds and the scent of truffle in the villages' cafés.

The truffle in Provence is the black winter truffle, Tuber melanosporum, which grows beneath oaks and hazel bushes and is sought out with trained dogs. Those who search for them are called rabassiers in Provençal. Here are the markets and traditions, and what's worth knowing before you buy. More about the villages can be found on VERA PI's map of Vaucluse.

01Richerenches – the Knights Templar's truffle village

Richerenches is a small village in northern Vaucluse with around 540 inhabitants, according to VERA PI, and a long history. In 1136, a local lord, Hugues de Bourbouton, gave land here to the Knights Templar, and the village became one of their most important commanderies in Provence.

Today, Richerenches is known for its truffle market, held on Saturday mornings during the season. On the third Sunday in January, a special truffle mass is held in the church, the messe aux truffes, where the collection is taken not in money but in truffles. After the mass, the traditionally dressed brotherhoods of truffle hunters carry the donated truffles to the square in front of the town hall, where they are auctioned off in aid of the church. The village is packed that day – arrive early.

02Carpentras – the Friday market

Carpentras, at the foot of Mont Ventoux, has its truffle market on Friday mornings from November to March, coinciding with the town's large Friday market. It is one of the most accessible truffle markets for visitors, and it pairs well with a weekend around Ventoux and the vineyards of the Côtes du Rhône. The property market in the town can be found on VERA PI's page about Carpentras.

03Apt and Vaison-la-Romaine

More markets have a truffle section during the season. In Apt, the Luberon's main town, a truffle market is held on Saturday mornings alongside the big Saturday market, and in Vaison-la-Romaine in northern Vaucluse on Tuesday mornings. This makes it possible to visit several markets during a winter weekend – the rest of the week is in our guide to the markets of Provence, day by day.

04How to buy truffles

At the markets, truffles are sold by weight, and the price varies with the season and the harvest. A good black truffle is firm, has a strong scent and a dark interior with white veins when cut. Ask the seller when it was found – truffles should be eaten within a few days. Those who don't want to buy a whole truffle can eat it at one of the village restaurants, where during winter it is served on simple dishes such as eggs, potatoes or bread with olive oil.

The truffle is best stored wrapped in paper in the refrigerator, or in a sealed jar with eggs, which absorb the scent. Anyone wishing to bring truffle home should check the regulations for importing food into their country.

05Provence in winter

A winter week in Provence is a different trip from a summer week. Many hotels and restaurants are closed, but those that are open are quieter, and the villages belong to their inhabitants. Mont Ventoux often has snow on its peak, and the light is clear and low. It's the time for those who want to see Provence without the visitors.

More destinations can be found among metromode.co's destinations, and property prices in the Luberon's main town on VERA PI's page about Apt.

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